Convoy to Imphal
by John Alton Price

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It was a clear frosty morning in the early winter of '45. I walked down to a shallow fast flowing stream for an early dip and ablutions. The grassy bank and pebbles crunched under my Plimsoles and taking a deep breath I plunged into an icy cold pool scooped out of the sandy bottom of this tributary of the Manas river which had its source in the high hills of Bhutan. There was a pale blue grey mist covering the tiger grass on the west bank. However, in about a half-hour the scene cleared, by the early sun and revealed a crystal clear atmosphere and presented a magical sight. The tiger grass was a soft golden colour as far as the eye could see from this low elevation. Above this, to the north and west was a massive wall, the lower areas of which were a smoky purple, changing gradually upwards to violet and blue, and at an unbelievable height the colossal mass was covered with snow and ice. This high elevation looked pale yellow, gold, orange and peach to a cold ice blue at the very peaks. I was, of course, looking in wonder at the great massive range of Mount Kanchanjunga, in the direction of Bhutan and Darjeeling. I understand the distance of the peaks (as the Crow flies) was about one hundred and fifty miles from where I stood. The very clear air foreshortening the distance somewhat. The whole area in this direction was covered with grass, on the Plains, and the far off tree covered hills finally rising to the high Himalaya.

What was I doing here? Well, at this period of my Military service I had been posted to a Laundry and Bath Unit which was Mobile and was being formed next to the Grand Trunk road north of Dhanbad, a railway colony in Bihar, India. We were to move, when given the order with part of the 14th Army heading into Burma for the second Campaign. This movement was destined to fight its way over Kohima, Imphal and towards Mandalay. Our small Unit of Commanding Officer, two Warrant Officers, six Sergeants and about one hundred and seventy Indians of all ranks were responsible for: four twenty ton Laundry and Bath Units, hauled by articulated tractors. Twenty-three three ton lorries, a Staff car and two Motor Cycles. We carried various armaments and stores. Also a small Admin: unit, tentage and many other bits and pieces which included communication wireless and telephones. The distance to Imphal from where we were assembling with other Units, was something like fifteen hundred miles. The progress would be slow as regulations allowed a speed of only fifteen miles within the hour. In the interim we were housed under Canvas, and while assembling our equipment, we were occupied with Pistol, Rifle, and Bren Gun training. We were also becoming acquainted with the notorious Sten Gun. Various sporting activities to keep fit and entertain the troops were organised. We played hockey against other Field Units and went into Dhanbad to play against members of the two Railway Institutes, one European and the other Indian. These local railway employees (who, incidentally helped to run a very efficient network of The East Indian Railway,) were most hospitable and we were enrolled, as honorary members of their Institutes. These organizations had all the facilities of a Club. Dances, 'Housie Housie', Whist Drives, Tennis, Swimming, and Billiards were some of the entertainments organized at regular times. Dhanbad was a typical railway colony in India so the larger part of the population was employed by The East Indian Railway. At Kulty a few miles away, Mining Engineers of the Bihar Coal Co. had a well-appointed club and we were invited to use their facilities which included a swimming pool. Asansol, some miles to the East, also a railway Colony had its Institute and we occasionally went there to the Cinema, the only one around for many miles. Restaurants as such were not available so we had our meals in the Unit Mess, under Canvas. We were sometimes invited out to dinner. I remember on one occasion going to a Mining Engineer's house for a meal. His wife and mother received me very kindly but the Boss was not there; Bertie was expected back from a Shoot, at any minute. While having a drink, after about half an hour or so Bertie duly arrived with a friend whose chalk white appearance and torn jacket gave the impression that things were not quite normal. It transpired that the friend had been mauled by a Panther. His jacket was ripped open at the shoulders and he had sustained scratches on one side of his face and hands. This called for an immediate Anti Tetanus injection. After receiving treatment at the hospital he slowly recovered, however, he had been somewhat shaken and stirred! We were later given a graphic account of the attack. The animal, believed to be a cattle killer had been cornered in some grass over a kill and had broken cover; the only way out happened to be in the path of the hunter.




Military Police Information Sheet

 


Coronation Bridge N.E. Bengal
When Movement Orders were received we moved East down the Grand Trunk road towards Calcutta. I had not seen this part of India before (travelling by road) so found it interesting driving through the flat Plains of dusty Bihar, with these wonderful Canadian built Laundry Units. It was a slow business. Jock, the
Transport Warrant Officer, mounted on a Norton 500cc motor cycle lead the way, followed by our Station Wagon, then the twenty three Lorries and bringing up the rear, the four Laundry Units escorted by a Havildar on a motor cycle. . .Getting closer to Bengal the scenery gradually changes to lush green Paddy fields, various Palm trees, Water Buffalo wallowing in the wet grass lands; occasionally an Elephant. The villages were made of thatch and bamboo, which is abundant in this area. Cranes, including the Giant Indian Crane and many Egrets, always on the look out for their next meal. Transport used by the farmers is always, in the wet areas, flat-bottomed boats with a shallow draught which they punt. The sky is always a warm blue (at this time of the year) and driving, mile after mile on straight sun drenched roads can be quite soporific. Of course we had to take it in turns and sometimes a smoke would be helpful, to keep awake!

Our route was to move east through Asansol, Burdwan and then through a small Dutch Colonial town called Chinsuria, settled by the Dutch in 1647C; where there was a church built in 1678C; and some fine buildings. We then passed through Chandernagore where the French built a factory in 1674C; It had a Pink Church and some fine French Colonial style houses giving it the air of a small French town. We finally arrived in Barrackpore, a few miles north of Calcutta. At Barrackpore the whole Unit was loaded onto railway carriage 'Flats' and we progressed north to Siliguri. The train was pulled by wonderful Steam locomotives, which while very interesting, covered us in soot and dust. We were necessarily exposed to the elements but some of the journey was spent sitting in our vehicles. This railway line passes through the Tehri forest (the lower approaches to the Himalaya) which is the home of the Bengal Tiger and many other wild animals, including Bison and Elephants. If one is interested in Steam, travel on the Indian Railways is a wonderful experience. Natives of the various regions have their own characteristics, dress and customs. Some of the natives dress in very colourful garb while some use plain and drab garments. The women of Rajistan (and in other areas) are always dressed in an 'eye catching way' with full skirts, figure hugging short Bodices and flowing 'Chuddar' covering the head and shoulders, falling below the knees. These garments are always in bright colours and patterns. They are also fond of displaying pieces of jewelry (made in Brass, Silver or Gold) on their heads, arms and ankles; even the toes. The men usually wear white and large bright coloured Turbans. In Bengal, the region we were travelling through, white or soft colours were preferred. Languages are also many and Dialects numerous.



Stuck on a Brahmaputra Bank



Capt. John Gibbs, myself and Chintay

The Unit was disembarked at Siliguri which was the end of the broad gauge railway. Here we were to report to the local Movements Officer for further orders. We were all subjected to Cholera injections and given twenty-four hours leave. Six of us piled into the Station Wagon and made our way up the mountain road to Darjeeling. Passing many beautiful Tea Gardens and spectacular scenery along the way up to much cooler climes. Passing through Kursiong, where the road to Sikkim joins, we moved on up to Darjeeling where the massive snow covered mountains come into view. A small railway climbs up the mountain, from Siliguri to Darjeeling; this has many bends and is more tortuous than the motor road. At one point the rail actually spirals over itself, this section is appropriately known as the 'Eagles Nest' Some youngsters have fun by getting out of the carriages at this point and climbing straight up the steep incline to meet the train chugging along at a very slow pace, at the top of the spiral. We found Darjeeling much to our liking and found a restaurant where we enjoyed some good food; which made a nice change. Army rations were not at all exciting and we weren't looking forward to the future issue of 'Compo' rations when we approached an 'Operational' area. This would be east of the Brahmaputra River. We were sometimes able to purchase fresh vegetables in local markets. This however would be most certainly out of the question when we got into the remoter parts of Assam. The Indian troops had their rations of rice and pulses, and flour. This they were able to prepare fresh at meal times on their 'make-shift' earth built Chulas (cookers). Portable stoves were available in special circumstances. It's truly amazing the gift Indians have for cooking under most primitive and uncongenial conditions. At all stopping points the inevitable cup of tea was conjured up with miraculous rapidity! My Orderly (who incidentally came from the further most north west corner of India, namely Chitral) kept me supplied with fresh Indian food, when, and if required. The Subidar Major ( OC.Indian troops) a Sikh, saw to it that we were well looked after. He was an old soldier and a fine tall handsome figure of a man, coming from one of the foremost warrior races of India. I have to add that my Orderly, a most inoffensive and likeable fellow was, several months later stabbed in the back, while watching a stage show in the grounds of a Burmese Temple. The Burmese from the south didn't like any foreigners, especially the Indians. We were able, however, to rush our man to hospital where he recovered, some days later. While at Darjeeling we noticed that it had quite a mixed population of Tibetans, Nepalese, Bhutias, and various Indians from the Plains; and of course Europeans. There were a couple of fine English Public Schools around the area. St Pauls having a good reputation. The Bazaars were of interest and Horses could be hired for Trekking. This was in fact, the centre for many Himalayan expeditions. We moved back down the Hills to rejoin our Unit after a very enjoyable break. I did, however suffer for a couple of days with a swollen arm and painful side, due to the after effects of the Cholera injection. It hadn't acted up like this ever before.

The next day the Convoy was formed up and we moved towards Cooch Behar via a place called Jalpiguri where we had been 'staged' the previous night. Near here lived an ex Assam Bengal Railway Manager who invited some of us to his place for dinner. After a few miles across country we arrived at his very interesting looking house on stilts. It was raised about six feet from the ground because, apparently we were in an area prone to being flooded during the Rainy Season. The raised buildings also made life more difficult for snakes and other creatures of the night to gain entry to the property! The family, including wife and daughter Violet, (a very attractive young woman) received us in a most hospitable way which made the six of us feel immediately 'at home'. We were entertained with a film show of wild life in the area, and also some footage taken in East Africa. The local scenes included an Elephant 'in Must' displaying his love for a very much smaller female. This Manager happened to be very keen on hunting Big Game and we heard with interest some stories of his experiences. After a much-appreciated dinner, the like of which we hadn't had since our visit to Firpos in Calcutta, we were driven to a forest inspection bungalow in the Lower Dours forest. Our host was an honorary member of this forest and used to Conduct shooting parties for the Maharaja of Cooch Behar and his guests. I found the experience very interesting. The bungalow was sighted on the edge of a cliff. A wide deep Moat surrounded the building in a large arc to keep wild animals out. We crossed over a fragile bridge to get into the compound. This house is for use, only for forest staff who tour the area from time-to-time when on their inspection rounds. Looking down the cliff, a drop of a hundred feet or so, we could see a narrow winding stream, covered on the west bank with Tiger grass as far as one could see. We were told that animals such as Elephant, Rhinoceros, Tiger, Leopard, Pig and various Deer and Antelope came to this part of the stream, before darkness fell, for their evening drink. But we saw nothing as darkness had already set in. We slowly walked back half a mile or so to where we had left our transport. Someone almost stood on a Night Jar. . . (these birds habitually crouch on the ground and are well camouflaged) which with a frightening noise rose into flight, guns were raised, hearts missed a beat or two and then all was quiet, except for a nervous giggle. A few yards further on, two firey eyes flashed; guns were again raised, expecting a Leopard. Torches were switched on and guns raised to fire. only a Jackal! we breathed again. Remember, this was a large dense forest of Sal and Teak, quite impressive and sinister in parts. Back at the house, one part of which had a large veranda with windows facing northwest. On fine days one could view the vast Plains across the nearby river away over the Tehri and Himalayan range of Kanchanjunga. In the house was displayed many shooting trophies. Tiger, Leopard, a seven foot high Himalayan Bear and some chairs made from Elephant jaw bones. Also tables supported by Antelope horns. At this period conservation was not an everyday topic. We were in a green and lovely part of North Bengal and the views in every direction had something of interest. Sarus Cranes picking up small fish in the Paddy fields and teams of yoked Buffalo moving slowly across the fields, driven by the farmers. The village houses are built from a mix of mud, straw and dung. The roofs covered with matted Palm leaves. The Palm trees are also a source for a juice which is drunk either fresh, or after it has fermented; this they call 'Toddy'. Groves of Banana palms and fruit trees all make for a picturesque scene. With reluctance, we had to make our way back to the 'Staging' camp.



Common Griffon Vulture


Wild Pigs

The next day saw us once again on our way through Cooch Behar towards the Brahmaputra river to cross over to Assam. Our immediate destination was Goalpara on the banks of the river. At this place the Unit with vehicles were loaded onto a steamship of the Bengal Navigation Company. These boats looked similar to the Mississippi river boats, but were not as tall. Six cabins on the top deck to accommodate Officers and N.C.O.'s. and a lower deck for the rest of the troops and transport with stores. The air here, on the water was cool and the river very wide (I guess we were about five hundred miles from the Delta) and the current was swift. We observed small islands of vegetation floating down stream as we made our way, quite slowly up towards Pandu; about a hundred and fifty miles away. This trip took us three days and on the first night a mysterious raging fever 'hit me'. This was probably 'Sandfly fever', it was later decided. After a day, constantly in a bath of sweat, I recovered sufficiently to enjoy this new experience on one of Asias' largest rivers. At Pandu we disembarked and formed up once again for the next stage of the journey. This took us through Gauhati, passing a Field Depot where I had once been Posted in April 1943, for a period of twelve months or so. This particular area of Assam is rather wretched, in my view. In the Monsoon it is very wet and Humid. Temperatures climb up to the nineties and low hundreds, but worst of all the humidity is a hundred percent. The Winter months are short but quite pleasant. The hills are covered with almost impenetrable forest and are alive with snakes and many many other creatures. Snakes we encountered almost daily. However, it is all most interesting for lovers of wildlife, of which I count myself as one. Unfortunately my introduction to Assam in '43 was not a happy one. I awoke one morning to discover I had a running sore down the right side of my face. I was told that a Spider had got at me. I was given an ointment which cleared the sore in about three weeks. I paid very close attention in the future to the 'tucking in' of my Mosquito Net before getting into bed! The one bright spot in Gauhati was a Chinese restaurant as I remember. Restaurants of any kind were very few and far between. Passing Gauhati we drove north across the dusty Plains and were heading for Tropical forest along the lower slopes of the Naga Hills. In these hills lived a very colourful tribe, who, even to this day sometimes carry out their long tradition of Head Hunting. They, of course are known as the Nagas. These people are gifted trackers and many of them were used by the 14th Army during the two Burma Campaigns. The natives of this area proved to be staunch and faithful. The zone a little west has a large and interesting Wildlife Reserve. Here are found the Great Indian Rhinoceros, Bison,and several other endangered species of Fauna. The tropical jungle is a paradise for wild game, birds, butterflies, and plants, including several varieties of Orchids.

Leaving the Plains and vast stretches of Paddy fields behind, we climbed the hills towards Dimapore. Here we reported to the Movements Officer, who to my surprise was a chap called Leslie Davies, an acquaintance from the past. We were conducted to a Staging Camp and given our orders, with accompanying maps(some of which I have to this day)showing the route to Imphal.


God of the Hills - Hanuman


The Dimapur - Imphal Road

After a night spent in the camp,(incidentally, this area of Assam has pockets where Malaria is rampant, including the dreaded Black Water Fever.)We lined up the convoy, all drivers being given strict instructions to drive carefully. We had to make our way up a single track of mountain road for about forty-six miles to Kohima. The road twists and turns its tortuous way to an elevation of about five thousand feet. We did see several casualties along the way, where vehicles had gone off the road to end up in a ravine or on the precipitous hillside. Kohima was shattered by the first Campaign and several books have been written about the famous and crucial battle in the area. Our stop, when we reached the summit, gave the convoy men a chance for a 'brew up' and for the vehicles to cool down. I had another meeting with an old family friend in the Canteen. Charles was on his way down the hill, in the opposite direction, now that our convoy had left the way clear. He was on his way with his Unit to re equip and return to Imphal. Our convoy then made its way down to the lovely valley of Imphal, which was another eighty-seven miles into Manipur State. We were to wait here at a site off the Ukhrul road. Further orders were to be received before our move into Burma via Palel and Tumu. In the mean time we went on a visit to the Market place in the town of Imphal. This left quite an impression on us. All the stalls were organized by women. These Manapuri women are very attractive and statuesque, especially so as they wear their national dress which is colourful and figure fitting. "The Manapuri Dancers" are quite famous. One night our Unit held a concert for the troops and some dancers put on a most spectacular performance. We learnt that Manipur was a Matriarchal state, and woe betides any man who stepped out of line! While our Unit was having a long wait, The Laundry and Bath machines were put to good use by troops in our area. These machines were destined to disinfest and disinfect, and launder some of the 15.000 Japanese captured in Burma: however, this is another story. We were getting anxious at this long wait in Imphal because there were rumours that the Monsoon was early. Sure enough, after three weeks the Corps H.Q. sent us an order to return to Calcutta! The Monsoon had arrived in Burma and had made the roads impassable for our Heavy Vehicles. On return to Calcutta we were to be moved to Rangoon, across the Bay, by Ship.

The convoy on the long trip back to Calcutta: was as interesting as the trip up to Imphal, taking about three weeks. Arriving at our destination, we were allotted some Jute warehouses in Barrackpore next to the Hoogly river. We off loaded and moved into these warm musty buildings. Strangely enough, our sleeping quarters were directly above the Ammunition store! Here we were to wait for the next move, into Burma.






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